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Within the Loire, Cabernet Franc’s personality shifts as you move from village to village. Chinon, with its mix of gravel plains and limestone slopes, yields everything from easy-going, juicy bistro wines to more muscular, cellar‑worthy expressions. Bourgueil and Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil mostly lean toward vivid dark berry fruit and fresh acidity that finishes with a charming herbal lift. Saumur and Saumur‑Champigny (Asheville’s Sister City) features a finer, chalk‑etched structure, with more floral notes and softer texture. Comparing the different villages really shows how remarkably sensitive Cabernet Franc can be to place, reflecting even the most subtle shifts in terroir in the next village just down the road.
Viticulture in Bourgueil and Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil dates back to Roman times; however, the area’s vineyards flourished after the founding of Bourgueil Abbey in the 10th century. Fast forward ten centuries, and Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil earned its own AOC status in 1937, distinguishing its sandy‑gravelly terraces and fresh, approachable reds from neighboring Bourgueil. It’s fascinating that even though the two AOCs share broadly similar terroir and a singular devotion to Cabernet Franc, almost all of the local vignerons are hyper-focused on site‑specific expressions.
Alain and Pascal Lorieux are firmly rooted in exactly that site-specific Loire tradition, farming vines in both Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil and nearby Chinon. The brothers cultivate their vineyards sustainably, vinifying grapes from individual terroirs separately so that the nuances of each sitecan clearly shine in the finished wines. Their Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil cellar sits near the eastern entrance to the village, at the beginning of the right‑bank terraces that separate Bourgueil from Saint‑Nicolas, emphasizing the firm line of demarcation that’s defined the two appellation styles for generations.
In your glass, Saint‑Nicolas‑de‑Bourgueil from Alain et Pascal Lorieux is a vibrant, medium‑bodied expression of Cabernet Franc featuring classic Loire notes of black cherry and crushed raspberry framed by earthy hints of cedar and dried herbs. A subtle and persistent beam of graphite‑like minerality focuses the fruit and keeps things well-lifted. Bright acidity and fine‑grained tannins keep this Loire red wonderfully food-friendly for the table or for casual sipping pleasure by the fireplace.
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